In Kabala we asked around about a
good book college we heard about. Sargent Dimba, with his eyes still half
closed, told us in Krio that he knew where it was and would take us there. So,
Rita, Muhammad, Sargent and I all headed off down another back road. Sargent
and I were in the back seat. As we would come to a T in the road or a split
off, Sargent would say “Right” and point left. “He means left!” I would shout
and we’d jerk to the left suddenly. “Oh, he he, yes, that’s right, left.” And
then in a few minutes “take your left” now pointing right… Eventually we made it to the college which is
located about 20 minutes from Kabala town. As Rita turned the engine off, I
could see a young white girl passing out pineapples slices to the excited
national children. She looked up from the children long enough to smile sweetly
and retreated into the house. Soon we met, Faith, the girls mother. Faith grew
up in Sierra Leone, He Father and Mother started churches in the north East of
the country. Faith greeted first Sargent in Krio and spoke happily to him as he
smiled and remarked on the buildings conditions. During the war all the
building at the school had been bombed. “When we returned to rebuild there were
trees growing inside of the buildings and through the roofs. ( She said
something in Krio to Sargent, Like ‘the forest never stops.’) We cut them down
and used the wood to help rebuild.” Faith is beautiful. She conversed naturally
and easily in Krio with Sargent and was evidently very pleased to see him
again. As we spoke, Her oldest daughter walked past us with a national child on
her hip and headed up the hill. Faith said of her, “ She is a good girl, hard
working, she is always helping the women
to thresh their rice.” Later Abby greeted us shyly and respectfully also
greeted Sargent in Krio. Faith life is beautiful, and she is raising her
children with the same love and compassion that exudes from her own heart. She
told us about their plans for the college, her husband and herself were simply
there to advise while they were reforming the college. Her heart however is
with the unreached of the SuSu and she longs for the day when they might be
able to start ministry among them. I left the college feeling refreshed and
hopeful for S.L. And I think Sargent did as well. As we drove out, he commented
on how beautiful the campus was now. The last time he was on that campus he was
an army Sargent and he had to drag the dead bodies strewn about the campus into
a pit. But now there are children
laughing and playing, there are fruit trees planted all over campus, there are
new buildings and there is hope.
Wednesday, July 18, 2012
Bafodia
When
we finally reached Bafodia, we were very well jostled, bruised from banging
knees against the doors and stiff from the long ride but joyous at finally
making it. We immediately were escorted to the chief’s house where we greeted
him with the traditional gift a Kola nuts. Parimount Chief Piri is a devout
Muslim but since his youth he has known all about the Way. In 1947 Wesleyan M’s
came and founded a Ch and School in Bafodia. The Ch building was erected in
1952 and still stands at the center of town. Chief Piri is extremely tolerant
of Blvrs and even appreciative of all they have done for his Chiefdom with the
building of schools. He was very interested in us coming back again, perhaps we
might bring more education and teach the Way too? As we talked with the Chief, Michael
mentioned having family in Kabala (back down the three hour road) and said he
wished he could have found his Uncle Micah while he was in town. Soon after the
Chief introduced an elder in the community, Elder Micah. Micah is a tall and
built, he walks with a slight limp but that does not diminish his image of
power. His face was smooth and he acts as one who knows himself well and is
content. Rita immediately asked, “Michael is this your uncle?” Michael looked
at the man and shook his head, “No, No, Micah lives in Kabala this isn’t the
same man.” Micah began to ask Michael about this other Micah and then stood up
to embrace him, “I am Micah your uncle!” Michael had not seen Micah for twenty
years and did not even recognize his uncle sitting right in front of him. “He
was a slim and young the last time I saw him! This man saved my life in the
war! If it was not for Micah I would not still be here.” In the war, Michael’s
father asked him to take a large sum of money across the border and back to his
family in Mali for safe keeping. Michael was a young man then and as he was
attempting to cross the border just after Kabala into Guinea he was stopped by
the government police. The war brought on lawlessness and anyone caught with
any money for valuables were often called rebels by the police and then killed.
“They were saying, why bother with him, why bother! Just shoot him, just shoot
him we don’t have time for this! Everyone knew me in Kabala, they all knew my
grandmother and my family and me but no one would say so because the police
would just say ‘You are a rebel too! They tied my hands so tightly behind my
back with rope that I still have marks on my wrist. I know they would have
killed me but Micah was a big man and in politics. He was in Freetown that week
but he called them on the phone and told them, ‘That boy you are holding is my
son, if you hurt him you will pay the price!” Because of Micah’s influence Michael
was released and able to cross the border. Michael was extremely blessed to
escape with his life. We did not meet a single person who was not in some way
scarred by the war. In Bafodia, there was a teacher at the Wesleyan school who
told us his story. He was a very young married man when the war started, His
wife was still just a teenager. The rebels came and took his wife and little
daughter away. He heard that they had taken his wife to Freetown and later he
found out she had been shot by ECOWAS during an invasion. “They could not tell
the innocent from the rebels, they just shot everyone.” He said, many young men
were forced to fight at the front line for the rebels or one of the other
factions, you had no choice, “You either go and they kill you, or you stay and
they kill you.” People who were of no use in the war, children and old people were
killed or maimed without regard. We heard a story of rebels debating over
whether a pregnant lady was going to have a boy or a girl, they asked her what
she thought it was, they made bets on what it would be. Then they said we know
how to find out and took a knife to her stomach. Chief Piri also had his marks
from the war, he was stabbed in the head and went to the states for medical
treatment. He spoke of the fun he had in D.C. and meeting the old Wesleyan M’s
who by then were in their 80’s and the restaurants he ate at but barely even
eluded to the real reason of his visit.
Before we left Bafodia the chief gave us a
gift of a chicken… a live chicken. We tied it up in the back and pr that it
survived the ridiculous drive home. We
had a hard time coming by any food that was not doused in hot peppers. So that
night we gave our chicken to a lady at the guest house and repeated multiple
times, “No peppers.” That was the best meal we’d eaten since entering Sierra
Leone.
Friday, June 22, 2012
Sierra Leone
Sierra Leone, God’s beauty shines
all around it but the scars of man’s cruelty is deep in every heart. We crossed
the Guinea/Sierra Leone border late morning of June 11th. In our
home town, Rita and I picked up M a Malian believer who was born in Sierra
Leone but fled the country with his family during the rebellion. M is
ethnically Malian and is currently living in Mali but has family and friends
all over Mali, Guinea and Sierra Leone. He came to help us with border crossing
and because he was familiar with S.L. and some of the languages spoken there.
This was M first trip back to S.L. since the bloody rebellion in the 90’s.
During the war, many houses were burned and destroyed and even the paved roads
were broken up by combatants with sledge hammers which left the landscape very
different than when M last saw the country 20 years ago.
Our first night we spent at the Hope Center in Freetown. Eagerly we began the task of making contacts to help us on our journey to find the unreached people groups of Sierra Leone. Gd blessed our first location with many, many friends with our same vision and hope. We had only one name coming into the Hope Center but left 2 days later with a list of names, numbers and locations to visit. In Freetown we met with colleagues working through GCPN and also with the local Sierra Leone Baptist Convention. At the SLBC office, the Ch Growth Director showed us their chart hanging on the wall which followed the T4T style that I also was trained in before coming the field. I was impressed that T4T ideals are taking hold even where little SBC or outside forces are present. The T4T movement originated in Asia but has been slowly gaining speed on every continent over the past 20 years. The chart on the SLBC wall is just what we’d hope to see, local blvrs reaching neighboring UPG’s and spreading the Good News rapidly. Unfortunately, when we asked about the UPG’s that we knew of in the North and East of the country, we were told that those areas were not their responsibility but that of other denominations present in the country.
Our first night we spent at the Hope Center in Freetown. Eagerly we began the task of making contacts to help us on our journey to find the unreached people groups of Sierra Leone. Gd blessed our first location with many, many friends with our same vision and hope. We had only one name coming into the Hope Center but left 2 days later with a list of names, numbers and locations to visit. In Freetown we met with colleagues working through GCPN and also with the local Sierra Leone Baptist Convention. At the SLBC office, the Ch Growth Director showed us their chart hanging on the wall which followed the T4T style that I also was trained in before coming the field. I was impressed that T4T ideals are taking hold even where little SBC or outside forces are present. The T4T movement originated in Asia but has been slowly gaining speed on every continent over the past 20 years. The chart on the SLBC wall is just what we’d hope to see, local blvrs reaching neighboring UPG’s and spreading the Good News rapidly. Unfortunately, when we asked about the UPG’s that we knew of in the North and East of the country, we were told that those areas were not their responsibility but that of other denominations present in the country.
So we
were off to the North and East to look for these UPG’s and the other
denominations apparently responsible to them.
But not before we visited M’s Grandmother and sister deep in the
compressed row houses in Freetown. As we
headed out that day in search of M’s Granny house, it was overcast and a storm
was looming. We came from Jui which is closer to the entrance of the peninsula
and headed down towards the tip where the actual city of Freetown is located.
On our way in it began to pour rain, many school children were walking back
from school drenched by the storm. M was having trouble finding the streets
because of the vast change in the city since his last visit, so we pulled over
to ask directions and a girl about 13 years old got in the truck to “show us
the way.” The girl was already drenched but content to be out of the rains
still falling hard outside. She spoke in Kriol to M and soon we found ourselves
on a ridiculously narrow road packed with venders. Our side mirrors bumped
along the umbrellas protecting the vender’s goods. Rita kept asking, “Are you
sure this is the way? Are cars really allowed on this road?” M would say
something to the girl in Kriol, the girl would node in the affirmative and
point down the narrow road that we were now trapped in. No turns, no allies to
make a U turn, just endless road with venders moving there boxes over so we
would not crush them. Then the flood came. Ahead of us the road was filled with
water, baskets bobbing up and down in the current and people grabbing their
goods which were floating down the road… you can’t make this stuff up. I don’t
know how we made it out except for Gd’s providence and Rita crazy awesome
driving skills but we did eventually make it out of the ceaseless market road
of Freetown. Apparently, you should not
take directions from little girls who generally walk home.
At M’s Granny’s house we were
greeted hospitably and fed a meal of spicy rice with potato leaves. Rice is the staple of both S.L. and Guinea
which is unfortunate for me since I despise it. We ate rice three times that
day… and many other times over the next 9 days. Fried rice I like, it’s sticky,
it’s delicious, and I’m southern fried anything is right up my ally. But that’s
not generally what is served, it’s that bland white rice that feels like your
swallowing larva eggs. We started to get pretty creative with our food choices
towards the end of the trip... to M’s dismay because no matter where we went,
even if other things were offered on the menu, M always ordered rice. Se la
vie. M’s family was beautiful, especially his Granny. She was so sweet looking
in her yellow Ponya and head wrap. During our border crossing a Guard at a
check point gave us a bucket of curdled milk to deliver to the Guinea
ambassador… yeah. So anyway during our visit with Granny we had to walk down
the steep inclines to the main road were we met the Ambassador in his car and
delivered the much cherished milk which he then offered half to us. Weird huh?
After much thought, Rita began to wonder if there might have been something
special about that milk… or maybe in the milk.
From Freetown we struck out towards the Northern provinces and into the town of Kabala. We went on a lead to a Guest house called Sengbeh. We were met by the manager who was upper body was scrunched down… I know there is a medical term but I’m not that smart. With him most of the time was an older man who went by Seargent and whose eyes were always half closed. He tilted his head back slightly whenever he spoke to you (only in Kriol) and was dressed in a long white Islamic garb with a round white cap. The first rooms we were shown the windows were nailed shut and since there is no electricity we could just barely see the holes in the sealing above the bed. No sir. “Ah yes very nice…Do you have any rooms without boarded windows?” Yes, the best was held till last… there was still no running water but at least we could see (during the day) what was looming in the corners. We got up with the sun to take the… um road, to Bafodia. 30 miles in three hours, the truck multiple times spinning its wheels and lurching backwards as Rita fought for ground going through the S.L. Mountains. Each village we putted through, the people greeted us with waves and stares… crazy white women.
From Freetown we struck out towards the Northern provinces and into the town of Kabala. We went on a lead to a Guest house called Sengbeh. We were met by the manager who was upper body was scrunched down… I know there is a medical term but I’m not that smart. With him most of the time was an older man who went by Seargent and whose eyes were always half closed. He tilted his head back slightly whenever he spoke to you (only in Kriol) and was dressed in a long white Islamic garb with a round white cap. The first rooms we were shown the windows were nailed shut and since there is no electricity we could just barely see the holes in the sealing above the bed. No sir. “Ah yes very nice…Do you have any rooms without boarded windows?” Yes, the best was held till last… there was still no running water but at least we could see (during the day) what was looming in the corners. We got up with the sun to take the… um road, to Bafodia. 30 miles in three hours, the truck multiple times spinning its wheels and lurching backwards as Rita fought for ground going through the S.L. Mountains. Each village we putted through, the people greeted us with waves and stares… crazy white women.
Sunday, June 3, 2012
Welcome Home
The seats are crowded in front of
my gate, I look up to the gate monitor it reads Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. I check
my watch, when I came to Africa it had a crisp white band now it is a grayish
brown. My clock shows 30 minutes until my board time. “Is this the gate for
Conakry?” I ask the lady at the desk, hoping she speaks English. She shakes her
head yes then looks up at the monitor and runs off… apparently they forgot to
change it. Soon an announcement comes over the loud speaker, it’s in French but
I gather by the crowd rushing towards our gate that my flight has arrived. I
stand in line perplexed by the mass of people pushing towards the gate
entrance. “Don’t these people have tickets? What’s the rush?” I wonder, as I
too begin to feel the panic in the room and push forward in the crowed. We all
take a bus to the runway where we board the plane; the same mob mentality takes
over on the tar mat as people push in towards the plane. Some Asians and I
stand towards the back a little ruffled by the chaos.
Soon I am in my seat and the
stewardesses are cramming bags in every space possible. There is no space for
my bag in the overheads nearby me. “Madame” I say as sweetly as possible to the
stewardess and then gesture towards my bag. She takes my bag but also my ticket
stub. When the stewardess passes my seat I say “Pardon? Ticket?” She looks
confused “I did not return the ticket?” she asks in broken English. “No” I
reply trying to be as friendly as possible. After waiting a long while, she returns with
my ticket I smile and say “Merci.” There is a man dressed in a white robe and
circular hat sitting beside me. Just after take off the plane groans loudly as
the wheels pull into their place. An older woman dressed in an African out fit
with a head wrap sitting across the aisle clutches her armrest and looks
distressed, the young man sitting beside her looks at me and we both smile and
laugh at little. Africa is funny. Sometimes I feel like I’ve walked into a
comic strip, there are brightly dressed people walking down every street, many
of them doing things that seem silly to me.
When the plane lands in Conakry, we
all rush off much as we rushed on and heard into a room to fill out entry
papers. As I fill out the paper a young man asks for my pen. I had been
guarding my pens like they were gold for the past month and had kept up with
the four I carried with me all throughout 40/40 which seemed like a giant feat
to me. I wanted to say “no get your own” but that would have been too
complicated to say in French so I begrudgingly handed it over to him. In the Senegal Airport, I had been met by
dozens of men with little laminated blue cards speaking in French and flashing
the card like it should mean something to me. “Your friend sent me to pick you
up,” one of them said. “Oh did he?” I asked, “Then what is my name?” I got a
blank stare in return. “You don’t know me.” I was wary that the same scene
awaited me behind the fence beyond the passport check.
In line at the passport check I see
a small bat is flying inside the building. He is diving and swooping above us.
I laugh at the creature and look around at the other airport visitors, no else
is as amused with him. I can also see gnats have gathered around the heads of
the two Asian girls in front of me. I half wish that the bats would dive down
for those gnats and add more fun to the chaos. When it is my turn at the passport
check line, the man asks me for an address. I have none to give him, “A friend
is picking me up. He said he would be out in baggage claim.” The man does not
say anything he just motions me to the side and does not give me back my
passport. “Well this is annoying,” I think as I pull out my computer to see if
I saved anything with any address at all. “Madame! Madame!” A man is waving at
me, my first instinct is to ignore him as one of the mass of men waiting to
take advantage of me but then I can see him waving a sign with my name on it. I
am afraid to leave the guard-stand at the passport line but he doesn’t seem to
be paying any attention to me so I walk over to the gate. “Is this you?”
demands the guard standing at the fence as he takes the sign from the man
calling me. “Yes that is me. But they won’t let me though.” The man with the
sign gives it to me, there is a note on the back introducing Mr. Conde as a
friend who will help me through baggage claim. Mr. Conde passes through the
gate and argues with the man at the passport check in French until I can see
them scratch out and rewrite a few lines, he then grabs my passport and we are
on our way to another world of chaos known as the baggage claim.
Mr. Conde and I stand and wait for each of my
trunks and bags to come around the conveyer belt. I am startled by a young man
who taps me on the shoulder and hands me my pen. “Merci” he says as he smiles
and leaves. I had already forgotten the pen after waiting in line for 25
minutes. I felt sheepish taking the pen back, he had searched for me in the
baggage area to return such a small thing; that would never happen in America. I
am happy to see all three of my checked bags made it but worried for my guitar
which has not turned up yet. “Is this? Is this?” Mr. Conde asks of each bag
passing. “No, we are looking for a guitar.” “Oh okay… Is this?” he asks
pointing to a large duffle bag. “No a guitar. Guitare?” I try with my best
French accent. He still looks at me confused. So I mime an air guitar. “Oh
Guitare!” he exclaims and then runs off to his friends at the conveyer belt. We
have my guitar in just a few moments and are again cramming into a mass of
people. There are no lines in West Africa but apparently there is some sort of
order because the guard yells at a man ahead of us and sends him to the back.
Mr. Conde is on his best behavior and we are soon through the mess and headed
up the ramp. Mr. Conde is motioning towards the crowd, “There are our friends”
he says. I am looking but I do not spot them, finally the crowd opens and I can
see my new friends and team mates, finally home.
Tuesday, May 29, 2012
A Path into the Past
The man’s chest is bulging to one
side abnormally. Walking on the outside of his feet, he hobbles up the path towards us as
he slurs out a greeting. I look at Marie and Amanda to see their reaction; my first thought
is drunk or maybe touched, but then I see Joseph our host smiling kindly at the
man. Joseph brings out a chair for the man to sit in, signifying respect and
care for the man. Rapson, our friend and interpreter, hurry’s to introduce the
man, “He is one of our members.” The man adds, “I saw you at church this morning
but I had to leave before the sermon because I was sick.” Each word is heavily
slurred and takes effort. This man’s clothes are a little more tattered and
worn than most of the people in Singa Village but through the heavy slurring I
can piece together a sketch of this man’s rich life. His crippled body has
obviously seen better days, as he speaks to us he wants to know what continent
we are from, then what region, then what country and what state. This man seems
quite knowledgeable; He speaks highly of his many international grade school
teachers. They were from Canada, Ireland, England etc. “Canada is in North
America,” he proclaims with a wide smile. “Mathematics was my favorite topic, I
loved my mathematics teacher, he was from Canada.” In 1963, the British colonized
Rhodesia, which encompassed what is now Zambia and Zimbabwe, dissolved and
allowed self-government of the two states. This older man received the benefit
of these international teachers while under the Rhodesia era.
“Some people say that men came from
monkeys…” He looks at us cautiously to see our reaction. We shake our heads, “No
we don’t think that, we believe God created man.” “That’s right! That’s right!”
He exclaims with pleasure, “How could man come from a monkey?” He asks incredulously.
A young girl, maybe four years old, creeps around in the shadow of the house,
her eyes fixed on our white skin. “That’s my youngest daughter. Frieda! Frieda!
Come and greet these people.” Grinning he says, “She is scared of you, she’s
never seen you before.” Frieda runs across the dirt yard and crouches behind us
in the shadow of the branches and tree stumps forming a fence for the backyard.
“Some say Africans came from Ham…” his voice trails off as he stares at us, as
if for guidance, “…some say it is because of climate,” he continues, looking at
his arm. The man seems to ramble his white teachers various tainted lessons. He
looks at us, as though we are his teachers. I can see him there, in that class
room, a young boy, peering up at his red headed school master. I shake my head,
half from actual confusion of where the conversation is going but mostly
because I do not want to follow the raciest logic of his former teachers. After
sitting for many long minutes, the man smiling thanks us for speaking with him,
obviously pleased with the visit he struggles to his feet, says his goodbyes
and walks back down the dusty path. Two girls who have been standing nearby
take this opportunity to greet us; they appear to be about 6 or 7 years old; one
of them is Frieda’s sister. “Muli bwanji,” we say warmly to them as we shake
their hands, “Bwino bwanji,” they reply bashfully as they curtsy. Finally, with
much encouragement from her older sister, Frieda slowly comes closer, bowing on
her knees, she reaches out and holds Marie’s hand. “Muli bwanji,” Marie says
warmly to the tiny girl. They remain this way for many moments, Marie leaning
forward in her chair, Frieda on her knees, her eyes transfixed on Marie’s face.
Then slowly Frieda relaxes and looks away, she uses her free hand to trace her
finger through the dirt, but she does not let go of Marie’s hand. Several
moments pass, Frieda’s sister stays close by, keeping an amused eye on her
little sister, sitting among the white women. Then Frieda finally releases Marie
and sits a few moments, before wondering away with her sister down the same
path her father had taken.
Monday, May 28, 2012
Singa village.. plus some
Our last adventure in Zambia, was the three day home stay in
a Zambians home close to Petauke. I went about 30 minutes away from Petauke
with two other single girls to a village called Singa. No one from 40/40 had
stayed in Singa before so we were all excited to be the first out there. We
stayed with Margaret and Joseph and their two sons Jonny (7) and Freddie (3).
Also at the house was their friend Rapson who was visiting so that he could
translate some for us and take us around the village. Rapson was originally
from Singa village but now live 5 Km away with his wife and son in another
village. He said one day he would move back to Singa village with his family
but first he had to finish paying the “bride” price for his wife. So he lives
in his wife’s village. In Zambia, when a couple gets married the man must pay
the family a price agreed on by both parties. Originally they would agree on
how many cows they would give the family. In modern day, though they may still
talk in cow terms, they find out the going rate of a cow and then pay cash.
Rapson speaks English very well but there were
still many awkward moments of miscommunication, no communication or compressed
communication. An example, on the first day in Singa Rapson was so happy to
have us there he wanted us to share our stories with a neighboring village
across the road. So we all went over and found ourselves sitting on a reed mat
in front of an older woman’s house. We told Paul’s story and then I told my own
and I asked her if she had a story like mine. She could understand English but
she could not speak it. She excitedly answered that she did have a story like
mine and then went into great detail explaining it in Nianja. She talked for
about 5 or more minutes. Than we looked over at Rapson, “what did she say?” I
asked. “She said, ‘Put Gd first.” That
is the way most of our translation went in Singa. We had so much fun in Singa
village though. I loved every awkward conversation and the long pauses in
between when neither person knows what to say or how to say it to communicate it
effectively with the other.
Margaret was so gracious to us. Generally
speaking, when you enter an Africans home they will not let you help with a
thing. They are so hospitable and the take offense if you were to help them
with dinner or to clear the dishes. They are proud of being hospitable. But we
were there to learn about the culture and that meant we needed to do those
things that generally would be shameful for a guest to do. Often in the past,
40/40 has had trouble convincing home stay host to allow their guest to help
with daily task like cooking, cleaning, and fetching water. But not our host,
she was eager to teach us all she knew. Margaret was only one year older then I
am but she knew way more about keeping a home and feeding a family than I could
hope to know any time soon. Everyday we took at least one trip to the well for
water. The village well was an open well, everyone gathered around with their
buckets on ropes and it was a great time dropping the bucket down and hauling
it back up. This was the time to catch up on local news and greet neighbors. All
the woman chatted as they worked. Once the buckets were full the women would
carry them home on their heads. Some ladies are talented enough to do it without
holding it with their hands.
At meal time, Margaret taught us
how to make Nshema, the staple food in Zambia. Marie volunteered to help the
first day and then became our chief for the week. Maybe it was because Marie
was the youngest, or maybe just because she seemed most eager but every meal
time Margaret called Marie over to begin cooking the Nshema. “coo-picka Nshema,”
that’s what she’d say every day as she stirred the pot of ever thickening white
paste. On one occasion, after going to
the field and picking the leaves of wild okra, we were shown how to make “African
soda.” Rapson brought into the house a bowl of wet ashes from the fire. The
bowl had holes in the bottom of it. Rapson placed an empty bowl underneath the
ash bowl, then he poured water into the ash and caught the water that ran
through. The result was a murky brown water that did kind of resemble a coke
coloring. As Marie, Amanda and I watched, we would catch side way glances at
each other. Rapson kept leaving the room for various reasons which gave us an
opportunity to discuss what we were going to do. “I am not going to drink that!”
was the first response. “No, No if they boil it we can technically consume it.”
“You don’t know where that ash has been!” “Gd, if I can get it down, you keep
it down!” Soon both Rapson and Margaret
were in the room pouring the African Soda and wild okra leaves into a pot. A
mixture of relief and regret came over me when they began to boil it over a
coal fire. Relief because it was boiled and therefore all the germs were dead.
Regret because now I could not refuse it because it was “safe” to eat. The
okra/soda relish was served with that evening Nshema. It was a lovely slimy
consistency. I noticed they did not serve themselves any… I beginning to think
they were just seeing what the Americans would actually eat.
That same day they tested our durability
in another way. Rapson wanted to take us to his village. We asked if it was
near or far (very relative terms in Africa), he assured us it was not very far.
Later we learned we would need to take bike to get there. We agreed that this
was okay so long as he could borrow enough bikes for the four of us. We watched
as he collected bikes throughout the day. By afternoon we could see he still
only had three bikes. He announced it was time to go and we nervously began our
walk towards the main road. The men he was borrowing the other two bikes from
did not leave, they were walking with the bikes. I began to realize what I had
previously made myself think an impossibility. By “we are going to ride bikes
to my village” Rapson meant, we ladies were going to ride and the men would
peddle. We watched as a Zambian man and woman zoomed past us on a bike. She was
perched uncomfortably on the back rack of the bike (meant for carrying a
package) riding side saddle. Yes, side saddle, is there really another way to
ride? Another whispered conversation between us ensued, “Can we really do this?
We don’t even know what village we’re going too. How the heck do you ride a
bike sidesaddle!” I thought this was an impossibility and for the first ten
minutes of clinging to the bike with my fingers I still didn’t believe it. But
eventually I did open my eyes and start breathing again and discovered, the
country of Zambia is beautiful by bike. There were beautiful boulders with
vines and bushes growing all over them. When we finally reached Rapson’s
village, it was as if we stepped into another world. The children there were
pressing in around us, they all wanted to touch us and shake our hands. I ate 8
times that day. At every house we visited they wanted us to eat something that
they had prepared, from raw peanuts to an entire meal of Nshema. That day was
amazing. As we clung to the bikes again for the 25 minute ride home, Rapson
stopped at a kiosk to buy Marie a stick of sugar cane. The way home was even
scarier as it was mainly up hill and my cyclist was rather wobbly, especially when
the semis tried to blow us off the road. It was more fun than any person should
be allowed to have.
Friday, May 25, 2012
Visit from the Chief's wife
The morning is filled with the songs of some delightful blue
rollers. They dance around bush camp, flashing their brilliant teal wings and
perching high in the trees. Today we are preparing for the visit from the Chief’s
wife. She is coming for tea time and all the women in bush camp are hurrying
about to prepare for her arrival. Sarah, De Anne and the girls are running around
clipping flowers from every flowering tree and bush. Others are busy stirring
bowls of sugar, chocolate and other ingredients for the different treats. I am
inside the building helping to move tables and lay “Shatangies” (pieces of
cloth used as skirts) for table clothes. We women are very happy to be using
our creative and hospitality skills. At about noon, Ms. Suzy drives onto campus
with the Chief’s wife and her sister-in-law. As the walk into the building, we
sing the a song and curtsy a bit as they pass. Inside we take out seats and
continue with more music and a round of introductions. Soon we are all enjoying
the treats and some tea. The Chief’s wife graciously allows us to question her
about her duties and her daily life. We learn that she is often entertaining
people. She is part of a matrilineal tribe, which means that the Chief is
chosen from the sons of his sister. Therefore the Chief’s sister is a highly
respected person as well. That is why she attended the party with the Chief’s
wife. Some ladies and girls presented a skit about Elijah and the widow whose
oil and flour did not run out. One of our last events was to sing a song in
Nianja. The words where “Mwamba, Mwamba” but the snake in the wall must have
that we were say “Mamba Mamba” because he came slithering out of the ceiling
rafters to join the party. He came down directly behind the Chiefs wife and
sister-in-law. He was just a harmless garden snake but that did not matter in a
room full of women. We kept on singing but there were now screams and stomping
of feet mixed in as some ran to find the men to kill the snake. The snake was
soon deposed of and we continued on our way. Aside from the snake it was a
great day of fun and learning.
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